RW Tutorials

[Trainguy76]

Yes that would be helpful, maybe some tutorials for 3DCanvas and Blender too.

[Colin]

I think this thread should be a sticky.

[Snuffy]

I think this thread should become a sticky

I think this thread should be a sticky.

I agree whole-heartedly!!

I went looking for this thread this morning and it was almost buried on the second page ...

Mods, can we get this stickied?

Thanks!

[marr5]

added Trainguy76 tutorial on who to convert Trainz/MSTS model to RW.

[marr5]

thank you for the sticky!

[marr5]

update!

added Trainguy76 tutorial on RailWorks packager.

https://www.trainsim.com/vbts/showthread.php?t=290165&

[Trainguy76]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pElL8ac2JI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FsW8...eature=related

Two of my videos.

[sparky15]

http://www.cdschools.org/54223045235521/blank/browse.asp?A=383&BMDRN=2000&BCOB=0&C=55205

Basic Blender stuff. Not train related but a neat little intro to Blender.

Dave......

[OSR]

A good tutorial would be how to follow the track on decals. I am attempting to do this and I just can't get the track to properly follow the decal track.

[Evictoria]

A good tutorial would be how to follow the track on decals. I am attempting to do this and I just can't get the track to properly follow the decal track.

My method for laying track:

1) Don't use the easement tool; use the snap to track option instead (lower left flyout)
2) Lay the straight stretches first; make them longer than necessary for now
3) Following your decals or route markers, join the straights with curves; overlap ends as needed (using the snap-to option you do NOT HAVE to start at the end or meet at the end of tracks. Try several "takeoff" points from your "near" straight until your curve matches your plan. If it won't snap-to the "far" straight, change your takeoff point. Only on rare occasions should you need to make a curve in two pieces to get it aligned.
4) Delete the overlaps and weld the joins

[TDHenderson]

My method for laying track:

1) Don't use the easement tool; use the snap to track option instead (lower left flyout)
2) Lay the straight stretches first; make them longer than necessary for now
3) Following your decals or route markers, join the straights with curves; overlap ends as needed (using the snap-to option you do NOT HAVE to start at the end or meet at the end of tracks. Try several "takeoff" points from your "near" straight until your curve matches your plan. If it won't snap-to the "far" straight, change your takeoff point. Only on rare occasions should you need to make a curve in two pieces to get it aligned.
4) Delete the overlaps and weld the joins

Tori,

Know your swamped right now with your route but if you had any free time to put this into a video tutorial I would be forever grateful. I just can't seem to translate this into practice without seeing it done by a master.

Regards,
Trevor

[OSR]

My method for laying track:

1) Don't use the easement tool; use the snap to track option instead (lower left flyout)
2) Lay the straight stretches first; make them longer than necessary for now
3) Following your decals or route markers, join the straights with curves; overlap ends as needed (using the snap-to option you do NOT HAVE to start at the end or meet at the end of tracks. Try several "takeoff" points from your "near" straight until your curve matches your plan. If it won't snap-to the "far" straight, change your takeoff point. Only on rare occasions should you need to make a curve in two pieces to get it aligned.
4) Delete the overlaps and weld the joins

Hi Tori, thanks for the help, perhaps now track laying won't seem so intimidating. One question though, I have the DEM for the route, but do I need to put in track beds before I lay the track? Or does have the DEM take care of that?

[Evictoria]

Hi Tori, thanks for the help, perhaps now track laying won't seem so intimidating. One question though, I have the DEM for the route, but do I need to put in track beds before I lay the track? Or does have the DEM take care of that?

Just now saw this....

After connecting all my track and trimming the leftover scrap pieces out for a mile or two, I use the Gradient tool to "pin" the track at 2 places that look like the grade/elevation is accurate. Even 1/9 DEM data has some variation in accuracy. Once I pin those two spots down using the yellow gradient pins (markers) and the "L" key, I delete any remaining pins, and click once more on an end pin. This will spring the track straight from one pin to the next. Ideally, the longer you can keep the same grade, the better. Even in my mountain terrain I have a couple of stretches of consistent grade for 4-5 miles.

To complete the trackbed I use the Snap tool to bring the terrain up to the bottom of my track. I usually set the Snap tool brush settings to 11 Width, 0.5 Falloff, and 10 Base. The slope/embankment settings vary depending on the surrounding terrain. Then if needed, adjust any splines individually using the terrain tools to get pleasing embankments.

Now that I have [painstakingly] perfected my technique I am next going to build something easy... the flattest thing around... like something in Nebraska!!

Tori

[TDHenderson]

Now that I have [painstakingly] perfected my technique I am next going to build something easy... the flattest thing around... like something in Nebraska!!

Tori

Let me know if you do, I'm a local and will help with the research. Rebuilding the CNW Cowboy Line is on my to-do wish list. The UP mailine would also be a good candidate for a route build.

Trevor

[Evictoria]

Is anyone doing the UP "Triple Track"?