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Thread: Uh, Oh and a question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Jacksonville,, FL, USA.
    Posts
    3,571

    Red face Uh, Oh and a question

    Colleagues,

    I made a minor boo-boo and maybe somebody has a idea or knows how to correct it.

    I started laying track in a double track stretch and by trial and many errors I got the
    stretch laid and a suitable long turnoiut at the end. (it is the west end of Haden near Clifton Forge, VA). However, I finally figured out how to get into the rule file for
    SanBernadino-Mainline etc. but I had edited the available radii tighter than original and
    adjusted the spacing to 4.6M (15' centers). Everything was fine except that I noticed
    one thing (at first).

    We are supposed to see a yellow block if the rendering will be straight track -- but I never see the yellow block, always a white block regardless, which is a problem because my
    tangents are a bit wiggly - more so than the real CSX, or maybe not. What would cause
    loss of the tangent yellow block?

    Secondly when I got to the next double track stretch I found that my parallel spacing
    was not 15' centers, it was more like 22' centers, and no matter what I do to the
    track rules file, it stays that way. So? If anyone wishes to take a look at my
    rules file, my E-mail is [email protected] and I'll send a copy.

    J. H. Sullivan
    (aka landnrailroader)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Stevens Point, Wisconsin, USA.
    Posts
    14,705

    Default Hmmm

    Well, answer to question 1 in the RS route forum, no easy way since there's no vernier adjustment. You CAN select a length of track in different places, thereby setting a different pivot point for rotation, the F and G keys to rotate, and for fine horizontal movement rotate the camera view around and use N to move the piece towards you, C to move it away, V for up and B for down. No way to finely control the rotation that I've found. Second question, I haven't found a way to force a snap to anything other than the left, here's one way to work around it;

    https://www.trainsim.com/vbts/showthread.php?t=283720

    As for track spacing, when you change the parallel spacing or minimum radius in the track rule (and don't forget to select Tools and Docs in the launcher and hit the clear cache button, lot of info is stored in them blueprint.pak files which invariably leaves you scratching your head wondering why your recent changes don't "take") it affects only new track, not track that's already in place.

    As for straight track I've never seen an automatic straight section, I always have to hold down the CTRL key and wiggle the cursor back and forth until the lines turn yellow to get a straight.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Jacksonville,, FL, USA.
    Posts
    3,571

    Unhappy Doesn't work

    I cleared the cache with the button, ran Otto's "pak" purger untility, and even
    copied the rules file over from RS and it still wants to lay track about 25'
    apart.

    I did the same edit on the RS rules file, ONLY, increasing the parallel distance from
    4.2 to 4.6 meters (15' centers) and when I placed two parallel tracks, they
    came out exactly 15' appart, or 4.6 meters, center to center. This beast must
    store it's stuff somewhere that is well hidden.

    J. H. Sullvan
    (landnrailroader)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Jacksonville,, FL, USA.
    Posts
    3,571

    Talking Solved

    I found that the problem was my 70 year old eyes. I thought I had selected the
    San-Barrs mainline, but in fact it had settled on the yard tracks version which has
    the 7.62m or 25' spacing. I found that after using the pulldown in the lower
    left panel, I had to double left-click on the item I wanted before it would "take"
    and yes, holding down the control key does give me the yellow box when I have
    a straight piece.

    Jerry Sullivan
    aka landnrailroader

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Stevens Point, Wisconsin, USA.
    Posts
    14,705

    Wink 70 year old ewes?!

    I didn't think sheep lived that long, hang on while I clean these greasy bifocals here. Oh, 70 year old EYES, yeah, mine are only 56 but still pretty worn out. Been there done that, made a custom PONtrack rule, then changed levers to switchstand indicators and named it PONtrack2, later downloaded somebody else's route and got the original back so I had two PONtrack rules in the list cuz I forgot to change the display name and I used the wrong one for a while. Gets worse now, I hack a bin file, delete the blueprints, fire up railworks wuffo my changes didn't show up? Oops, try hacking it in railworks\assets instead of rail simulator\assets next time, eventually gotta delete railsim altogether cuz it causes more confusion, either railsim or my alzheimers has gotta go.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    180

    Default

    Oh ho.. Twice as old as me huh?.

    Yea, Im trying to be really careful with addons and hacks and such.
    I really dont want to have to reinstall.. Or publish something that others cant use properly. Or lay double track thats 50 meters appart... (guess what i did in the past!)

    Its easily done though if you forget the "name" and then the 'name'.
    Steam Nic :- ΞΕZ♠C๐צΞ Fraggle
    Project Watch: https://www.youtube.com/user/MrAdrianSW

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Jacksonville,, FL, USA.
    Posts
    3,571

    Question Another Problem

    This one is really bugging me. I lay this nice stretch of track on a .8% gradient
    east from JD Cabin. About 3 miles east, it tops at 365.8M ASL and then starts
    down .2% to as far as I plan to lay this "connection". I get the base grade in,
    and then I use the post edit gradient tools. These work real neat --- and I save
    as I go ---- UNTIL I delete the last gradient marker. Then the whole thing snaps
    back, under ground, to the original elevation although it has retained the edits
    up to that point. So I put a marker at the point that should top at 365.8M and
    pull the whole shebang up to that level and it looks good, and all the whole piece
    has the right break points etc. Save again and remove the gradient marker and zip,
    right back down to about 350M.

    Anyone seen this kind of thing. I wonder if I should work the grades out to the end
    of track and leave a gradient marker at the end of track?

    J. H. Sullivan
    aka landnrailroader

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Stevens Point, Wisconsin, USA.
    Posts
    14,705

    Question Where does the picture go when you turn off the TV?

    I'm a little puzzled here, "UNTIL I delete the last gradient marker", which editor are you using? I use the gradient adjust tool there's no option to delete the markers, they go away when I select some other tool. One thing I did find tho, the correct way to do this is to place "pivot" markers at the place or places you want the grade to start, but I found that rather iffy.



    Usually that worked, if I pull up on the middle arrow it pivots from the ends, but sometimes it decided to be contrary and pivot from the base of the nearest switch wrecking the switch.



    So I started using the split tool to isolate the section at the point where I want the pivot, this works every time.



    CTRL click will select multiple places, holding down the L key while clicking will snap the track to the terrain, see the "Roller Skating Down Ladders" route in the file library for a screwy example of that.



    After finishing the adjustments reweld the ends where I split it;



    And the grade starts at the exact point I want it to.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    180

    Default

    I think I know what he means.
    There have been cases where I can used the gradient tool to make a temporary gradient marker in the track. It stays until I move the marker at either end of the track. Im usualy working on roads when this happens.

    What you need to do to stop the grades from reverting is to "break" the track, then "weld" it. That gives you a perminent grade marker that wont move unless you move it. Somewhat as mentioned below. Dont go too rampent with these breaks though. And dont try to break too close to any junctions, else you are in for more than just a headache.
    (i created an accedent akin to clapham like that.. oops)
    Last edited by adriansw; 08-31-2009 at 11:35 PM.
    Steam Nic :- ΞΕZ♠C๐צΞ Fraggle
    Project Watch: https://www.youtube.com/user/MrAdrianSW

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 1999
    Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada.
    Posts
    1,538

    Default The Grade Markers (as I used them)

    Hi Jim and JHSullivan

    When I created my grades test route I set a marker on all the tracks I was going to adjust, these are the ones you can see in the picture. The ladder to the grade tracks is behind the photo location.

    Once these markers were set, I went to the end of each track, added another grade marker then carefully selected one and dragged up or down until I had the grade I wanted. The reason I said carefully is because if you miss you just place another marker which is, I think, not removable. At no time did I move any rail beyond the initial markers I placed near the ladder tracks.

    JH, perhaps you have "Snap to Terrain" turned on which may be why you lose your adjustments.

    GaryG
    Attached Images Attached Images

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