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Thread: Freight cars for BLW ZT Connecticut River Line

  1. #91
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    London UK
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    I am hoping that now these cars are in the Open Rails Screen Shots that they will have correct ORTS settings,
    Include settings programed for couplers, brakes, loads in the open door varieties.
    Ian Dodd has door opening and closing routines for some of his boxcars.
    Just banging out different textures on the sides is no longer a good enough option.
    ORTS is now the only way forward. It should be embraced now.

  2. #92

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    They will . . . however this is still in future tense for a few more weeks. We've been getting our heads around making .wag and .eng files in Open Rails and Gerry Storey has been a huge help. There will be an update released (probably next month?) with open rails settings for .wag and .eng files -- thanks to Gerry. They will be our pattern for future releases.

    Christopher

  3. #93

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    Quote Originally Posted by conductorchris View Post
    They will . . . however this is still in future tense for a few more weeks. We've been getting our heads around making .wag and .eng files in Open Rails and Gerry Storey has been a huge help. There will be an update released (probably next month?) with open rails settings for .wag and .eng files -- thanks to Gerry. They will be our pattern for future releases.

    Christopher
    That is wonderful news Christopher, thank you. As justlooking correctly points out, ORTS is the only way forward and it is fantastic to see some of the best modellers in the sim now starting to embrace all the benefits it offers that MSTS doesn't. Thank you very much and keep up the good work.

  4. #94

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    Rutland-XM.jpg
    A Rutland PS1. Texture by Max Brisden, model by Rick Franzosa.
    Roofwalk on this one is a little interesting - I think it's a US Gypsom roofwalk - a honeycomb instead of a grid.

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Hastings, MN, 55033
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    3,323

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    Quote Originally Posted by conductorchris View Post
    That's a beauty isn't it, Ross.

    I see that it has been whitelined - that is it has been retired and waiting disposition.

    My weathering skills are not as good as I wish! But I do have few tricks. Others are better than me though.

    In this set, targeted to 1956, most cars are lightly weathered, some not at all. More weathering would be more appropriate, but the more weathering there is, the more the car stands out and this is aimed at an overall sample of the fleet. Also weathering is hard.
    Try masks. Use a photograph of something with a rough surface (such as a rusty metal plate) as an alpha channel for a dirt layer. Make a few dirt layers this way, play around with the positioning, and you might be amazed with the results. Put the colour layer below, the shadow layer on top, and any highlighting on top of everything else (unless you also use a top-level mask, like I do, to clean things up). I can have something looking grimy and dilapidated in a few minutes with a bare minimum of effort this way.

    Here's another useful technique, but only for GMax users: you don't need to spend $180 a month on 3DS or drive yourself to suicide learning blender for AO renders. Just use the FS2004 gamepack and Middleman/MDLcommander to export an X-file (don't compile it), then import it into 3DCrafter (which costs 40 bucks). 3DC retains all smoothing groups and material information, and can use POV-Ray to render decent AO maps for you. You could also get a model into Railworks this way.

    People who build in 3DC, obviously, can just bake AO maps. TSM users would need to export to a format that either 3DC or GMax can import (I think there was a DXF export plugin for FSDS which could get models into GMax). The chain there would be workable, but pretty long.
    Last edited by Erick_Cantu; 11-18-2017 at 10:14 PM.

  6. #96
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    Wareham, Dorset, U.K.
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    I have to assume that by Ian Dodd you actually mean the payware available through Tiger Trains? Quite apart from the fact that Tiger Trains is covering a much newer era of Railroading there seems to be, and I stress I can only judge by the single screenshots displayed on his site for each pack, little weathering on his models?

    Quote Originally Posted by justlooking View Post
    Ian Dodd has door opening and closing routines for some of his boxcars.
    I'm not really sure how relevant a feature that actually is? The ability to open doors has more relevance for passenger stock and activities IMO. As discussed in the thread already box cars are usually closed ASAP to protect their loads from pilfering.
    Quote Originally Posted by justlooking View Post
    Just banging out different textures on the sides is no longer a good enough option.
    Whilst the box car has become a rather secondary form of car in modern railroading the era addressed by the Conn River pack is one where they still accounted for a large proportion of traffic. There were, and the team here have spent a LOT of effort creating the variety, a huge number of variations manufactured that were in use. If you think that this is "Just banging out different textures on the sides" you really didn't look closely enough
    Geoff
    Dorset - near The Swanage Railway.
    UK

  7. #97

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    Erick, thank you for your inspiration. I spent the evening playing with masks. I typically have weathered *over* the livery underneath. But tonight you've got me thinking about removing the top layer, as in peeling or fading paint and rust.

    One caution I've been given (by Rick Franzosa) is if you make a car too unique by it's weathering it creates a problem in longer consists because it stands out if it is repeated.

    Christopher

  8. #98
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    May 2010
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    The answer to paragraph 2 Christopher is just keep churning out cars until you have so many you don't need to repeat them.

    I'm reasonably content with my ability to get grime "over" the layer but I've never got close to mastering that sort of uneven peeling paint, layers of rust look that many others do so well. If you have any success there, please feel free to give us some more info on how you've achieved it! I'd love to be able to do it properly.
    Last edited by ossie; 11-20-2017 at 06:49 AM. Reason: typo
    Cheers!
    Pete

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by ossie View Post
    The answer to paragraph 2 Christopher is just keep churning out cars until you have so many you don't need to repeat them.
    LOL!

    Quote Originally Posted by ossie View Post
    I'm reasonably content with my ability to get grim "over" the layer but I've never got close to mastering that sort of uneven peeling paint, layers of rust look that many others do so well. If you have any success there, please feel free to give us some more info on how you've achieved it! I'd love to be able to do it properly.
    I only use Photoshop so I'm not familiar with functions in various versions of PSP. I did some mineral wagons in a UK stock pack (way back) and found that there were excellent photo's showing this peeling paint from a rusting base. By copying and rescaling them to a suitable size I could then paste them as a layer. Use of a small "blur" tool around the edge makes the pasted image blend more convincingly. Once you're happy with the effect you just merge the layers.

    http://www.atomic-album.com/showPic....onMINERAL1.jpg
    Geoff
    Dorset - near The Swanage Railway.
    UK

  10. #100
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    May 2010
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    They look excellent Geoff. That lifted/blistered paint effect is spot on and something I have consistently failed to achieve. I use Photoshop too and had always been under the impression (perhaps incorrectly) that PSP had a bit more "magic" about it and maybe I was working with the wrong package. Clearly not from your pic. Thanks for the tip... I'll start looking for "blistered paint" textures.
    Cheers!
    Pete

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