Quote Originally Posted by NW 2156 View Post
Hmm, Interesting. I was wondering if anyone was ever going to do a new version of the LTV route.

In your screenshots looks like there are some cross issues with the road. One spot the road is below rail and in another the road is over rail.

Those nice crossing pads you shared with me would look good on this route.

Robert
There are probably many ways to create a good road crossing and for a while I had a devil of a time getting the road elevation
correct viz-a-viz the track. Then it occurred to me that in a real road crossing, the rails are level with, or slightly above
the road surface and then the crossing boards make up the difference and hide a few sins. So now if it is just a country
road that only needs to extend far enough from the track to become invisible or go behind trees, I'll line up a piece of road,
perhaps 250 meters in length just so I align it with markers to the side of the track. Then I will raise or lower it until the rail
heads are just visible above the road surface. Next I will attach a road piece to one end or the other and delete this long
piece. Then I build my road, temporarily, back to the track and finally put a piece across the track, usually a 10 or 20 meter
piece. Then, if necessary, I delete the other temporary pieces & build my road to grade up to the piece on the track.

If it is a more complex road, I will build it up to the track level, as close as I can, and put the 10 or 20 meter piece across
the track. Then I delete the last piece before this one and adjust the vertical position of it to be slightly below the rail head.
Then I put the deleted piece back in and adjust it to fit the gradient. It is critical to note that if the road and the piece over
the track are too close together, one or the other will snap together and then you must start over. Also, if you accidentally
deselect the road piece over the track, it may then not be movable, and you have to start over.


Jerry Sullivan
retired from CSX & SR
Docent: C&TS RR