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Thread: Uncoupling - What Am I Doing Wrong?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Default Uncoupling - What Am I Doing Wrong?

    Sorry to sound like a newb on this, but first time I've attempted to do any shunting.

    Got the first portion of my Trona train into Mojave and attempting to break it down into sections, so I can add cars for the respective destinations off the second portion. I've closed the anglecocks, set the handbrake on the car I'm uncoupling from. I hit the uncouple button, power up to draw forward and instantly get a message about a broken coupler. Happened twice now.

    In addition, when I click the coupler to try and repair it, the button in the pop up box does nothing.

    What am I doing wrong, please?
    Last edited by dedwa15237; 01-12-2021 at 09:34 PM.
    Vern.

  2. #2
    metalangel Guest

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    It’s been a while, but you opened both uncoupling levers? Also, if you snap one, I think it is very visibly damaged looking, and you should click on the coupler itself to be able to repair it.

    Hope that helps. If you’re still stuck let me know and I will fire the game up.

  3. #3
    metalangel Guest

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    Went and tried anyway, and it worked fine. Closed both anglecocks, but the coupling lever wouldn’t work as too much strain on the couplers. Applied one notch backwards on throttle to give some slack and it was ok (coupler lever indicator was no longer yellow). Opened both, pulled forward, all good.

  4. #4
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    Mr. Angel beat me to the punch, Vern.
    IBM XT i386; 512Kb RAM; 5.25" FDD; 1.4Mb FDD; 5Mb HDD; VGA 256-colour graphics card; AdLib soundcard; DR DOS 6.0; Windows 3.0

  5. #5
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    I'll give that a try, I was only opening one of the knuckles (knuclehead!).
    Vern.

  6. #6
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    if the couplers are stretched tight , they won't uncouple just like in real life so bunch them up or have slack for you to be able to uncouple.
    Work Safe play hard

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalangel View Post
    Went and tried anyway, and it worked fine. Closed both anglecocks, but the coupling lever wouldn’t work as too much strain on the couplers. Applied one notch backwards on throttle to give some slack and it was ok (coupler lever indicator was no longer yellow). Opened both, pulled forward, all good.
    Metal, I have to ask, did you set handbrake(s) on the car(s), or, place an imaginary skate down before pulling away from loose car(s)?.
    Closing anglecocks on the standing(s) cars as well, is known as "bottling the air," which is a no no, esp., if no other cautionary measure(s) have taken place to prevent rollaway(s)., leaving an anglecock open on those to be left unattended, will provide another means of safety protection, by setting all brakes, while, air removed from the system.

    Sorry just had to bust those wings...lol... flashback of mini-wars within the TS/R8 forums.

    Good to know you / others figured out the process.

    1- close single anglecock (side to remain with you. (optional: plenty of handbrakes applied as well)
    2- click knuckle, view message, any color other than (White), need to provide some slack
    3- review message (White), activate cut lever, pull / back away at walking pace. (walking pace = 4mph or less)

    In the real, my last real days if playing roll of groundman would hear us calling via 2way something like this.

    Ok 4150 (eng of the day) we're going to leave some / take some.
    placing skate, ok pull or push on skate, ok HB set, ok to bunch-em-up, that'll do, ok to pull away, or, ok for the reverse. I'm safely onboard, lets take them out to xxx (new location).

    after a fashion becomes music if you will. a team that works side-by-side day after day, can often anticipate the other members moves, thus, often goes like clockwork so to speak.

    if within sight of one another often both hand / horn signals used without ever touching 2way or minimal use.
    Last edited by SMRY; 01-13-2021 at 11:03 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    I seem to have had more success this afternoon... You actually do get a very slight animation of the knuckle moving if done right. I indeed discovered that you may need to "ease up" to put in slack. As pointed out to me at The Depot, choosing to do my first shunting exercise at Mojave on a rising gradient was a rather bold step, but a satisfying challenge. Apparently it's not much easier if you take the train(s) to Searles and do it there.

    I am wondering if the couplers were really broken, as I was able to recouple again. Does the "Repair Coupler" button always appear when you select the uncoupled knuckle, regardless of whether broken or not?

    Thanks for the advice and encouragement.
    Vern.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthernWarrior View Post
    I am wondering if the couplers were really broken, as I was able to recouple again. Does the "Repair Coupler" button always appear when you select the uncoupled knuckle, regardless of whether broken or not?
    Yes, but the dialogue box won't be highlighted &, as mentioned, the couple will appear broken. When this occurs while switching, the break(s) usually closer to the power, not the car being uncoupled.

  10. #10
    metalangel Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMRY View Post
    Metal, I have to ask, did you set handbrake(s) on the car(s), or, place an imaginary skate down before pulling away from loose car(s)?.
    Closing anglecocks on the standing(s) cars as well, is known as "bottling the air," which is a no no, esp., if no other cautionary measure(s) have taken place to prevent rollaway(s)., leaving an anglecock open on those to be left unattended, will provide another means of safety protection, by setting all brakes, while, air removed from the system.

    Sorry just had to bust those wings...lol... flashback of mini-wars within the TS/R8 forums.
    Fair enough! Our man Vern was already applying handbrakes so I didn’t mention it again. Thanks for the insight into real practices!

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